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And the best place to start is in Quebec City — just beyond which the river becomes tidal. Think thick stone walls and crisp fresh linens, a glorious immersion in the past and present. From here, stay on the north shore of the St. Lawrence and enjoy a drive that rivals that of the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton.

The north shore is all steep, forested hills and stunning views. This Charlevoix region is a treat for foodies with lots of local cheeses, foie gras and specialties such as banana goat-cheese pie. Stop in Baie-Saint-Paul, where Cirque du Soleil had its start with local buskers during a summer festival. The village is charming. Stay for lunch in a bistro and take the time to stroll through the village to check out all the fine-art galleries. Some are aimed at the tourist; others cater to discerning art lovers. Further along the shore is La Malbaie, or Murray Bay, once a fashionable summer resort for the elite who would travel down the river from Montreal in grand steamships to stay in the Manoir Richelieu, a big castle-like hotel overlooking the water.

I would avoid staying there now, as it is disappointingly sterile and frequented mostly by tourists interested in the casino next door. It has the architecture of another time but the atmosphere of a bus stop. Better to find a small place such as the nearby Auberge des 3 Canards, where the rooms are simple, the view divine and the food delicious. It was developed by the late Francis Cabot, a legend among gardeners who was born in New York but spent his summers on the family estate outside La Malbaie. Originally part of a French seigneury dating to the s, the gardens cover more than eight hectares but are only open to the public about four times a summer.

Tickets go on sale online in the winter. And here, well, all I can say is that there are times when you travel that you can prepare yourself for beauty. I felt that way, standing with my back to the parked cars and trucks on a simple ferry, looking out to an otherworldly scene of steep cliff, water, sky. I knew that whales cavorted beneath me and, at one time, French fur traders pushed into the interior along the river in their fragile canoes.

I was between sky and sea and earth and time. Tadoussac dates to the s as a trading post, and in the s it, too, became a fashionable place to summer, for people travelling from Quebec or Montreal via steamship. The next day, continue northeast to Forestville — its origins are not hard to fathom — to catch the ferry across to Rimouski on the south shore. You have to book your passage ahead of time online for all the ferries that traverse the St. I have crossed the river at several points, but I like this one best. The wharf is in the middle of nowhere.

And crossing the river is like a ride on horseback, bumpy and wild and invigorating. There is also a small, comfortable inn in the village, Auberge du Grand Fleuve, which has a popular gourmet restaurant. Heading back to Quebec City, make time to spend a night in Le Bic, another summering spot from the 19th century. I think of it as St. Lucia of the north with its small pitons and gorgeous views over the water. A few years ago, we found a cozy place to stay, Auberge du Mange Grenouille, which is decorated in colourful, quirky taste — a true delight. Sit on the deck with a glass of wine and enjoy a wonderful dinner in their restaurant.

This place was a great find. It is fairly flat here — good for cyclists — and the tides provide endless fascination, pulling back like a blanket from a sleeping body, revealing all — mounds of rock, tresses of frilly seaweed, taut, glistening sandbars.

The best place to start a tour of the lesser-travelled, northern side of the St. Lawrence is Quebec City.

2 nights wild camping and checking on some old camps

Auberge des 3 Canards The rooms are simple, the view divine and the food delicious. To book a ferry from Forestville to Rimouski, visit quebecmaritime. Auberge du Grand Fleuve A small, comfortable inn with a memorable restaurant. Check out the art shows, musical events, folk art and home-decor items. Auberge du Mange Grenouille A cozy place to stay, decorated with colourful, quirky taste — a true delight. This is a space where subscribers can engage with each other and Globe staff. Non-subscribers can read and sort comments but will not be able to engage with them in any way.

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Contact us. They travelled from Missouri to the Pacific Ocean. Along the way Lewis and Clark documented their interactions with native tribes, with plants and animals, noted the climate and views, and famously never lost respect or kindness for or towards one another. The guide Sacagawea was crucial in ensuring they were able to carry out their peaceful mission with success.

They are the most famous explorers in the history of the United States.

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Camping on the St. Lawrence, by Everett T. Tomlinson

What is Jacque Cousteau Famous For? Jacque Cousteau invented a plethora of diving devices and scuba gear. He was a filmmaker and oceanographer as well as an explorer, and probably the most famous undersea explorer in recent history. What is Ferdinand Magellan Famous For? Ferdinand Magellan was the first European to sail across the Pacific Ocean and he is the man who named it as such. He was successful, but of the five ships he set out with, only one would be able to make the return trip. For a long time Ferdinand Magellan was considered the first person to circumnavigate the globe, but this has since been scrutinised.

Place and date of death: Ibn Battuta died around in Marrakesh in Morocco. What is Ibn Battuta Famous For? He returned to Morocco to provide a comprehensive description of Muslims around the world. What is Daniel Boone Famous For? What is Sacagawea Famous For? She was the daughter of a Shoshone chief and acted as the interpreter for Lewis and Clark on her adventure. What is Francisco Pizzaro Famous For? Date of birth and death: Leif Erikson was born around in the Icelandic Commonwealth. Place and date of death: Leif Erikson died around in you guessed it the Icelandic Commonwealth.

What is Leif Eriksson Famous For? Leif Erikson was a Norse explorer who is credited with settling Greenland and being the first European to reach America, up to years before Christopher Columbus. Place and date of birth: Sir Francis Drake was born c.

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Samuel de Champlain

What is Francis Drake Famous For? Sir Francis Drake was an English admiral who is renowned for circumnavigating and documenting the world from to , and going on to help defeat the Spanish Armada in Another English sea voyager, Captain James Cook is best known for his exploration of the Pacific Ocean and accurate mapping of the area. He is also remembered for his use of science in his travels. What is Edmund Hillary Famous For? Sir Edmund Hillary is best known as the first person to ever summit Mount Everest , the highest mountain in the world , along with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. Place and date of birth: Henry Hudson was born c.

What is Henry Hudson Famous For? Henry Hudson was hired to find a new, quicker maritime route from Europe to Asia. He would later discover the Hudson Bay, where his crew would mutiny. He paved the way for the Dutch to colonise the areas of the Hudson River. Place and date of birth: John Cabot was born c. Place and date of death: John Cabot died c. It is not known whether he died at sea or on land. What is John Cabot Famous For?